Sapa and the far north travel guide

Set amidst spectacular, misty, mountains, Sapa is the centre of tourism in this uniquely beautiful region on Vietnam’s border with China.

While the town may be showing the strains of breakneck, chaotic tourism development, you don’t have to travel far, for a sense of the breathtaking landscapes and the incredible ethnic diversity that have made Sapa a favourite place for travellers.

Ethnic minorities, mainly Black Hmong, have inhabited this part of Vietnam for centuries. They originate from southern China.

The Hmong are still the biggest ethnic group in the area, despite a big influx of ethnic Vietnamese (known and Kinh) on the back of the recent tourism boom.
 


French colonial forces passed through the area around Sapa in the late nineteenth century securing control of the far northern frontier of their newly acquired colony. Settlement came decades later in the early twentieth century and the town became a popular escape from Hanoi’s sticky summer heat. By the 1930s, Sapa was a classic, colonial hillstation, boasting an impressive collection of villas and a hospice.

Despite its remote serenity, Sapa saw plenty of twentieth century conflict. Most of the original buildings were destroyed by the Viet Minh, their builders the French, or the Chinese in assorted conflicts. Almost everything still standing when peace descended was cleaned up by hotel developers during the past decade. The quaint church at the top of town managed to survive as did a handful of other buildings.

Through all the change, Sapa has retained plenty of charm. It’s small and easy to get around and the beautiful setting is rarely out of view. Persistent local women and children hard-selling fabric on the streets can get tiresome, but keep smiling and don’t let them get you down.

Sapa is one of the most popular trekking areas in Vietnam. You can choose your adventure level and duration. There are magnificent walks for all fitness levels, some running over many days. For the less mobile, many spectacular spots can be accessed by car.

Sapa’s weather can be highly unpredictable so pack for all eventualities. It can be bitter cold in winter. Heavy mist and rain have dampened many a stay. Even in bleak weather though, Sapa is well worth the journey.

Allow four nights since the return train journey will take two - and you should spend at least two nights in the town or the surrounding villages.