27 January 2010

By Mark Bowyer

If Ba Dinh Square is Hanoi's political heart, Hoan Kiem Lake is its soul. Also known as the Lake of the Restored Sword, the lake is both rich in legend and one of the city's most well used and atmospheric public spaces.

Hoan Kiem Lake's central location means there's no avoiding it during a visit to Hanoi. It sits between the Old Quarter and the French quarter. But don't just wander past the lake. Joining the locals in sitting, walking or reading in the early morning or late afternoon is a great experience. If you're extremely lucky, you may even spot the lake's famed turtle. It raises its head above the murky waters every few years in an event that attracts great attention and is considered to be auspicious.

The "restored sword" legend has it that Emperor Le Loi was empowered by a magical sword in his 15th century battle against Chinese invaders. After his victory, Le Loi returned the magical sword to a tortoise in the lake marking the arrival of sovereignty and peace in the kingdom. The tortoise tower in the centre of the lake marks the event.

These days, Hoan Kiem Lake is a hive of local activity. In the mornings, locals of all ages descend for Tai Chi. By the afternoon, Hanoi's elderly descend on the lake for a walk, a chat or a game of cards. The lake is also a favoured spot for courtship by young couples.

On a small island at the northern end of the lake sits the early 18th century Ngoc Son Temple. The temple commemorates another military hero, Tran Hung Dao and another skirmish with the Chinese - this one in the 13th century.

There are a couple of ice cream and coffee shops on the lake that are worth a visit. The views across the lake from Legend's beer at the start of the Old Quarter are also great (the beer isn't bad either).

Read More: Vietnam, Hanoi, Hoan Kiem Lake, Old Quarter, Tai Chi, Le Loi, Lake of the restored sword, history