If Hue Citadel and Gia Long's tomb mark the beginnings of the Nguyen Dynasty, the forlorn Tu Cung Residence perfectly captures its pitiful demise.
While Bao Dai, Vietnam's last King, spent his final decades in France, his mother, long widowed, stayed mostly in this simple Hue residence.
In March 1975, as communist forces encircled Hue, Tu Cung refused to leave. And it was here that she lived until her death in 1980 aged 91.
It's unclear whether this site is really open to tourists or not. I've managed to enter on several recent visits. There are no tickets and there's definitely no information.
Inside, the house holds a collection of possessions belonging to the former Queen, some furnishings including a number of family altars. One altar is dedicated to Gia Long, the man that founded the Nguyen Dynasty in 1802.
There are also photos of her son, King Bao Dai, his wife Nam Phuong, and Tu Cung's 1980 funeral.
The photos add some humanity that is sorely lacking in Hue's other tourist sites. The absence of any information reinforces the sense of mystery.
Tu Cung Residence seems to devoid of travellers - but it may be one of the most profound experiences of a visit to Hue.
If you're a New York Times subscriber, you'll find some interesting snippets on the life of Madam Tu Cung by searching here.
Travel tips
Tu Cung Residence is a little further down Phan Dinh Phung St from An Dinh Residence.
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2 comments so far
I visited the Tung Cung Residence yesterday and found that it was now a fancy looking cafe throughout the yard and with some tables inside. We were still able to look throughout the house and at all the photos though, and there was an English description underneath each photograph. Also a sign out the front describing that it was the Queen Mothers Residence and a bit of history. Unlike your photos however most of the furniture seems to have been removed which I guess would take away from the atmosphere of the place but still a very worthwhile visit, thank you. It also looks like it has been repainted .
I visited the Tung Cung Residence yesterday and found that it was now a fancy looking cafe throughout the yard and with some tables inside. We were still able to look throughout the house and at all the photos though, and there was an English description underneath each photograph. Also a sign out the front describing that it was the Queen Mothers Residence and a bit of history. Unlike your photos however most of the furniture seems to have been removed which I guess would take away from the atmosphere of the place but still a very worthwhile visit, thank you. It also looks like it has been repainted .