Like its worn exterior, the cathedral interior is in a state of decay - held at bay by a devoted flock. The old stain glass windows, amazing natural light and some interesting local and European style ornaments give an especially atmospheric feel.
French proselytising was highly effective in the colony. When the communists took control of the North in 1954, almost 500,000 mainly Catholic migrants, fled South. Many more remained in the North. An estimated 6 million Vietnamese continue to practice Catholicism.
Relations between the Communist Government and the Vatican have been testy since the 1950s. Services in St Joseph’s resumed in 1990 after a long break and Sunday services have been packed ever since.
The Catholic Church continues to hold a large plot of land next to the Cathedral. In 2008, another plot further along Nha Chung St, that now houses a local library, was the scene of a confrontation between worshippers and police. The attractive colonial building was the residence of the papal representative prior to its seizure in 1954.
Nha Tho St is one of Hanoi’s most attractive streets - lined with boutiques, restaurants and bars. Hiding down a small alley off Nha Tho St, Ba Da Pagoda is well worth a visit.
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