The Cham ruins at Po Nagar overlooking Nha Trang are one of the most impressive remnants of the Cham kingdom that ruled over southern and central Vietnam for centuries.
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The Cham people ruled over most of what is now known as southern Vietnam and parts of Cambodia until the long southward march of the Viet people crushed the kingdom in the 17th century. The complex at Po Nagar consists of 4 towers thought to date from the 9th century. The original complex consisted of a total of 10 towers, dedicated to Yan Po Nagar, Cham Goddess.
The ruins at Po Nagar have similar basic characteristics to other Cham ruins at My Son outside of Hoi An, Poklongarai and Phan Thiet, south of Nha Trang. The Cham people were Hindu and later most converted to Islam. A Cham minority estimated at around 100,000 still lives along Vietnam’s south central coast and parts of Cambodia.
Travel tips Po Nagar is in a picturesque location overlooking fishing boats on Nha Trang’s Cai River. It can easily be reached by bicycle from the tourist areas of Nha Trang and combined with a visit to the mud baths, Long Son Pagoda and the cathedral.
Mark Bowyer is the founder and publisher of Rusty Compass.
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