It’s an unlikely place to be described as Vietnam’s cutest village, but Quy Hoa, outside of Quy Nhon, is a charmer. It’s home to an amazing collection of colourful colonial era and Vietnamese modernist cottages and public buildings. It’s set on a stretch of serene, undeveloped coast and enclosed by lush green mountains. The locals are friendly and welcoming. Remarkably, it’s also what remains of a leper colony, with some fascinating historical tidbits thrown in.
I’ve written before about Quy Hoa, south of Quy Nhon, on Vietnam’s central coast. In that piece I mentioned Quy Hoa’s connection to Han Mac Tu, Vietnam’s most celebrated modern romantic poet. Han died a leper in the colony in 1940. I also mentioned that Quy Hoa may be the only place in southern Vietnam with plaques commemorating US soldiers from the Vietnam War.
The leprosy centre at Quy Hoa, outside Quy Nhon in central Vietnam, treats a leprosy problem that is winding down, as new cases of the disease decrease. Quy Hoa dates back to French colonial times, when the disease was more prevalent and deadly. These days Quy Hoa welcomes travellers. It's anything but a morbid experience. It may be Vietnam's most charming little village. On our recent return, we took a special interest in the architecture - a colourful mix of French colonial and Vietnamese modernist styles. It's a beautiful, mellow spot, on a picturesque beach, surrounded by lush green mountains. You can read more on the blog.
Modernist residence, !Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon. The plaque on the right refers to Bishop Richard Feiten of Winona Minnesota
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Modernism, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon. The plaque refers to US Special Forces serviceman, Joseph Pellegrino, killed in action in May 1966.
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon.
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon.
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon.
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon.
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon.
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Stunning setting Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Delightful architecture, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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International Center for Interdisciplinary Science and Education - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon. A new piece of impressive architecture.
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Quy Hoa Cemetery
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Memorial to the French Director of the Quy Hoa Hospital, from 1955 to 1975
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French language memorial, Quy Hoa Cemetery.
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Quy Hoa Cemetery
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Fishermen on Quy Hoa Beach, Quy Nhon
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon.
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon.
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Church building, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Modernist architecture, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Quy Hoa beach
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Quy Hoa beach, Quy Nhon
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Remembering US soldier, Troy Thompson
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Colourful apartments, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Cute colourful cottages - Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Colourful apartments, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Colourful apartments, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Colourful apartments, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Troy Thompson plaque, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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The former home of poet Han Mac Tu, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Han Mac Tu's final days were spent here. Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
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Quy Hoa leper colony, Quy Nhon
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Last week I headed back to take a closer look at Quy Hoa - especially its mix of cute and colourful Vietnamese modernist, architecture.
This place deserves a heritage listing. There’s enough natural beauty, architectural charm and history, to create something very special. I’d love to know more about the story of the leper colony too - but there’s no information - though visitors are welcome.
There’s nothing morbid or voyeuristic about a visit to Quy Hoa either. You’re unlikely to see a leprosy patient. And the disease is now treatable. The village feels completely normal - well, that is except that it's unusually peaceful, clean and beautiful.
Han Mac Tu’s standing as a national figure hopefully means Quy Hoa already has some protection.
Vietnamese modernist architecture took root during the 1950s 60s and 70s across what was South Vietnam before 1975. It was pioneered by internationally trained Vietnamese architects. Its ubiquity is extraordinary, both in cities and in the countryside.
The embrace of modernism in rural areas is especially intriguing. You might expect rural cottages to be traditional. But Vietnam’s rural dwellers seem to have embraced the local version of modernism with the same enthusiasm as their city counterparts. From Kontum to Phan Thiet, Dalat to Hue, the modernist residence became mainstream. And the style remains visible throughout cities and towns today.
Vietnamese architects added their own flourishes to the style. And the buildings in Quy Hoa, while modernist in inspiration, feature some endearing colours and shapes that distinguish them from the coldness of some modernist architecture.
Quy Hoa is a living museum of the style.
I made some other discoveries during my most recent visit too.
I previously wrote about the plaque commemorating US soldier Troy Thompson on one of the houses. On my recent visit I discovered two other similar plaques on cottages around the village.
One referred to a former special services soldier Joseph D. Pellegrino. The other, a catholic bishop, Richard Feiten, of Winona, Minnesota.
I did searches on both of the these names. Joseph Pellegrino was killed in action around Quy Nhon in May 1966, just two months after the commencement of his tour. You can read more about Pellegrino here.
It would seem that the Minnesota priest referenced, Richard Feiten, also deceased, ended up embroiled in child sex abuse scandals in the US. All the articles referencing his name in search results refer to child sexual abuse allegations.
What remains unclear - none of the locals I spoke with could enlighten me - is the connection between these men and the Quy Hoa leper colony. We do know that the catholic church was, and remains, very visible in the community. And that foreign nuns worked here before 1975. But why these men are remembered on specific buildings is unclear.
Check out the gallery and video above for more.
Photo: Mark Bowyer The parish church, Quy Hoa, Quy Nhon
Mark Bowyer is the founder and publisher of Rusty Compass.
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Twitter: @rustycompass
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