National Museum Phnom Penh - Rusty Compass travel blog

National Museum Phnom Penh

| 30 Jun 2009
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30 Jun 2009

Cambodia's most important museum makes a striking impression as you approach. With pride of place downtown near the Royal Palace, the deep red of its structure and the deep greens of its gardens provide a dramatic foreground  to the uncluttered big blue Phnom Penh sky (weather permitting!). The National Museum is the most extensive collection of Angkorian treasures on display outside the temple complex. It's also a distinctive piece of architecture - designed by a  Frenchman borrowing heavily from traditional Khmer design.

The National Museum was inaugurated in 1920 as the Musee Albert Sarraut after the then French Governor. The opening marked a flourishing of interest in Khmer arts and culture driven by the museum's designer and main advocate, George Groslier. Groslier created one of Phnom Penh's most memorable buildings with its deep red colouring and its strong Khmer decorative elements.

Photo: Mark BowyerThe Leper King watches over the museum's gardened courtyard

The highlights of the museum are to be found in its collection of Angkorian pieces. The temples of Angkor have been looted over many decades. What remains is still staggeringly impressive but smaller decorative objects that could easily be removed from the temple complex, for the most part have been. Fortunately some of these pieces have made it into this collection as well as that of the Angkor National Museum in Siem Reap.

The National Museum's collection spans the pre Angkorian period through to the twentieth century and is housed in large open air pavilions. It's a great space and the courtyard in the centre is a good meditative place to take a break and have a think about Cambodia.

Regrettably, and for reasons not fully understood (this is an open air museum), photography inside the galleries is not permitted.

Be sure to take a walk out the back of the museum to the University of Fine Arts. Built at the same time as the museum, the university still trains students in the skills of sculpture and art as well as other disciplines and has the same rich red old world charm as the museum structure.

Mark Bowyer
Mark Bowyer is the founder and publisher of Rusty Compass.
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