My recent Sunday afternoon wander through less visited parts of Saigon's District 5 and District 8 won't likely result in a transformation of tourism in the city. There are no incredible "must see" sights. But for those with extra time in Saigon, little walks like this can be very good for getting in touch with the real pulse of the city.
While Saigon is for the most part, a hostile place for walkers, the canal that runs along Vo Van Kiet St from the financial centre in District 1 has proper walking paths that are rarely infringed by obnoxious motorcyclists.
While visits to downtown Cholon (District 5) are common for travellers, many interesting streets are left largely unexplored.
I started my wanderings at Petrus Ky's tomb just off Tran Hung Dao St. Hidden amidst the chaos of Saigon's Chinatown, known as Cholon, the tomb sits on a large undeveloped block that includes a family cemetery and a traditional Vietnamese house from the early twentieth century.
Photo: Mark BowyerPetrus Ky's Tomb, Saigon
Photo: Mark BowyerOld family graveyard at Petrus Ky's tomb.
Petrus Ky was a celebrated linguist, teacher and pillar of the Roman Catholic Church from the Mekong Delta. He struck up a good relationship with the French colonial elite and was considered an invaluable bridge between Vietnamese and French culture.
Ky held various official positions and was also instrumental in the adoption of the Romanised script in Vietnam. The script dates back to the 17th century missionary Alexandre du Rhodes but it wasn't until the late 19th century that its use was mandated. The indigenous script, known as chu nom was outlawed from official correspondence.
The parish church and convent at Cho Quan on nearby Tran Binh Trong St, 100 metres from Petrus Ky's tomb, is also worth a peak. The nuns were happy to show us around.
Photo: Mark BowyerThe convent at Cho Quan in Saigon.
From there we walked a little further to what was, until 1975, Petrus Ky High School - one of the most prestigious in Saigon. Petrus Ky's collaboration with the French made a name change inevitable when communists took over the south in 1975. The school's name changed to Le Hong Phong High School. It continues to be one of the city's most prestigious schools and the grand buildings and the courtyard of old trees give it a definite aura of distinction.
Photo: Mark BowyerLe Hong Phong school - formerly named after Petrus Ky
Le Hong Phong was a communist leader in the 1930s from Nghe An, the same province as Ho Chi Minh. He was imprisoned by the French on Con Dao Island and died there, in barbaric conditions in 1942. His cell is open for travellers to Con Dao.
From the Le Hong Phong school, we jumped a cab for the short ride to District 8 - an area of old colonial era canal warehouses and a Chinese community that dates back to the 19th century.
Photo: Mark BowyerOld French era warehouses in District 8 Saigon, the graffiti in the distance reads "no smoking or injecting drugs".
Photo: Mark BowyerOId Chinese shophouse, District 8, Saigon
Photo: Mark BowyerBaby enjoys a snack to the sound of squeeling pigs in the slaughterhouse behind.
3rd generation District 8 Chinese resident and I. He makes me look very tall.
Photo: Mark BowyerCatching a snack. District 8, Saigon
Photo: Mark BowyerDistrict 8, Saigon
Photo: Mark BowyerResidential alleyway, District 8, Saigon
District 8 is also considered one of Saigon's more dangerous areas. Not a place to loiter at night. We found the people extremely friendly though. They obviously don't get too many foreigners visiting their part of town.
Photo: Mark BowyerDistrict 8, Saigon
We strolled along the canal most of the way back downtown. The canal sure isn't pretty, but the simple encounters with local life were enough.
Photo: Mark BowyerThe newish Vo Van Kiet St.
Travel trips
Saigon is not a walking city - but this route is very navigable. The canal area has proper walking paths that are motorcycle free and safe.
Petrus Ky's tomb is at the corner of Tran Hung Dao and Tran Binh Trong St in District 5.
Le Hong Phong school is on Le Hong Phong St about 5 minutes walk away.
We walked along the canal from Cha Va Bridge down Ben Binh Dong St back towards District 1.
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