Streetside tunes mark the Saigon New Year

I saw the arrival of 2015 in Saigon. New Year in Vietnam’s largest city may not be especially slick but when it comes to good-natured festive spirit, Saigon leaves many more developed cities for dead.

My night began with friends in District 2. At around 12.30, I decided to venture back into District 1 to see how the party was coming along downtown.

Turns out, I timed my departure a little too early. Major roads into the city from where I was, were still hopelessly gridlocked. I decided to ditch my cab and try my luck walking. I figured I should be able to hitch a ride on the back of a motorbike (xe om) once I was through the worst of the traffic snarls.

For celebrating Saigonese, the motorbike isn’t just a means of transportation, it’s the destination too - the vantage point from which you participate in the fun. Which makes congestion on city streets especially bad but surprisingly cheerful.

As I passed the the most congested intersections, I started to wave down passing motorcyclists heading towards the downtown area. After about 10 minutes, a woman stopped and offered me a ride. She was covered from head to toe.

Photo: Mark Bowyer This off-duty policewoman gave me a ride dressed as most Saigonese women dress for the roads.

Photo: Mark Bowyer There are fewer inhibitions indoors. This is Cargo Bar on NYE.

While women’s fashion in Saigon has become increasingly racy over the past decade, the preferred motorcycle kit has gone the opposite way. Fearing unwelcome attention from slimy menfolk by night, or the sun's rays by day, Saigon’s female road users tend to cover themselves up very thoroughly - especially travelling alone at night. 

Turns out the woman that came to my rescue was a member of the local police who’d finished her shift looking after New Year mayhem. She very kindly dropped me to a waiting taxi right at the entrance to the Thu Thiem tunnel. 

It may come as a surprise to those who have had dealings with Saigon’s constabulary but she was absolutely insistent that I not pay here a dong for her efforts. 

A bit of New Year good will or a sign of generational change coming to the force? Time will tell.

Photo: Mark Bowyer After the party. Saigon goes home NYE 2015

Once through the tunnel, I commenced a rather long walk back to Cargo Bar through the streets of District 4 and stumbled across a family gathering playing traditional “cai luong” southern folk music. They may not have been the most proficient exponents of the musical style but they weren’t lacking in passion. 

It was definitely a musical highlight of the night for me. And the typical Saigon hospitality was a nice touch too.

Cai Luong is an acquired taste. After decades, I’m still acquiring. But I’m always fascinated by the melodic twists - both vocally and on the guitar. Enjoy the video.

A belated Happy New Year! Looking forward to sharing travel tales in 2015 with you.

Photo: Mark Bowyer Streetside tunes in District 4, New Years Eve Saigon.