We don’t normally push brands at Rusty Compass - unless they’re doing something very cool or different. The people of Cong Caphe probably tick both of those boxes. They’ve taken some of Hanoi’s best spaces, including some classic heritage buildings, and transformed them into cool communist - military style cafes. They may not win awards for heritage development, but at least they've saved the buildings from demolition - for now.
Several are located nearby the city’s most interesting sights too. So a tour of the best Cong Caphes gives you a great look at Hanoi - even if, like me, you don’t drink coffee.
It must be around 5 years since I stepped inside Cong Caphe for the first time. They had two outlets in Hanoi and it seemed unlikely they’d survive long.
The word “cong” means communal or public and reminds of the Viet Cong (Vietnam War era guerillas) or Cong San (communist). And the original cafes were less than reverent in their use of Vietnam War memorabilia.
They even poked fun at one of great champions of revolutionary communism and the one party state, Vladimir Lenin. Back then, the menus were scratched in red texta ink into Vietnamese language copies of Lenin’s works. And the Dien Bien Phu St outlet was right opposite Hanoi’s famous Lenin statue - one of the few left standing anywhere in the world.
Photo: Mark Bowyer The menu that ruffled feathers. Cong Caphe, Hanoi
Photo: Mark Bowyer The menu that ruffled feathers. Cong Caphe, Hanoi
Unsurprisingly, this didn’t last long. The authorities got word of what was happening and Cong Caphe was closed down - but only briefly.
After the provocative menus were changed and the logo too (the original colours were deemed inappropriate), Cong Caphe opened again.
Since then, the expansion has been phenomenal. Franchises are everywhere in Hanoi and like communism 40 years before, Cong Caphe is heading south. They opened in Danang a few years ago and Saigon’s first outlet opened recently too.
It’ll be interesting to see if Cong Caphe can weave its magic in the south as it has in Hanoi. In Hanoi, it seems to be more than holding its own against big international players like Starbucks.
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Hanoi
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Nha Tho St
Who knows, this cool brand may even have legs for the global market?
They may need to lift their toilet hygiene game before that happens. Though I’ve noticed that Starbucks doesn’t set terribly impressive toilet standards in Vietnam either.
As you make your way around Hanoi, you may want to mark these places out as well-located spots to chill out over a coffee or a juice, in between forays to the city sights. They’re good for a cold beer on a Hanoi summer afternoon as well.
Service and attitude is hit and miss. As they have different owners, the whole experience can vary quite a bit. There's nothing slick but the locations and atmosphere tend to compensate for other shortcomings.
The old photos of Hanoi in the 60s, 70s and 80s are fascinating, as are the bits of military junk used for decoration, and the chipped French era tiled floors. They’re great for people watching too.
There are dozens of Cong Caphes in Hanoi but we’ve selected these four as part of a little Cong Caphe tour of the city. I also find them quite good places to work - though the furniture isn’t really designed for long stays.
Cong Caphe 32 Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi
This is the closest to the heart of Hanoi’s historical and political action - and was the second to open. The Army Museum and Hanoi Citadel are close by, as is Ba Dinh Square with the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and his house on stilts. It'a right across from Lenin Park. Vietnam’s National Assembly is located a few hundred metres away, as are several ministries and other grand government buildings. You’ll also find some of Hanoi’s most spectacular colonial buildings nearby.
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Dien Bien Phu St
Cong Caphe 46 Trang Tien St, Hanoi
This is one of the best by my reckoning. Right between Hoan Kiem Lake and the Opera House, it looks over Trang Tien St with a nice mix of indoor and outdoor seating. Trang Tien St was a centre of style and sophistication in colonial days and it’s getting that way again. Cong Caphe however remains firmly grounded in military chic.
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Trang Tien, Hanoi
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Hanoi
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Trang Tien, Hanoi
Cong Caphe Nha Tho Lon (St Joseph’s Cathedral), 27 Nha Tho St, Hanoi
Right by St Joseph’s Cathedral - the centre of the Catholic Church in Hanoi. Nha Tho St is picturesque, lined with restaurants and boutiques and is a popular spot for young Hanoians to gather for a “tra chanh” (lemon tea) and a chat.
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Nha Tho St
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Nha Tho St
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Nha Tho St
Cong Caphe 55 Ma May St, Hanoi
Ma May is in heart of the tourist and backpacker strip in Hanoi’s old quarter. It’s pretty intense so you might be needing somewhere to catch your breath. Make sure you check out nearby Cafe Nola too.
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Ma May, Hanoi
Photo: Mark Bowyer Cong Caphe, Ma May, Hanoi
There are plenty of other cool cafes in Hanoi. You can check out our full listing of Hanoi cafes here.
Disclosure
Rusty Compass’s recommendations are always independent. We list the places we think you should know about. We’ve always paid our way at Cong Caphe. No money changed hands for this blog piece.
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