Need some peace in Saigon? Try a church

Saigon is intense. And it seems to get more intense by the day. So places of sanctuary and serenity are ever more rare and special. There are some cafes around town that offer peace and quiet. Sometimes the city’s churches can also be wonderful places to step back - not necessarily for religious observance - unless that's your thing. Even for a long lapsed catholic, they're places of special atmosphere and character. And you may come across some wonderful people too. Huyen Sy church (1902) on Ton That Tung St in Saigon’s District 1, is one of the city’s most beautiful. It’s not far from the Pham Ngu Lao backpacker ghetto, in the middle of some very hectic streets. I wandered in recently and met the Madam Ninh - decked out and stunning in the traditional Vietnamese ao dai. Madam Ninh’s story was a snapshot of life for many Vietnamese of her era. Born in the 1920s in Haiphong, the port city in Vietnam's north, she fled communism to the south in 1954, with her family, and has spent her life here since. She visits this church several times each week - as she’s done for decades. We spoke for 15 minutes or so. Madam Ninh’s a woman of incredible strength and grace. And she’s experienced her fair share of suffering. Meeting people like Madam Ninh, many of whom speak English (though Madam Ninh didn't), continues to be one of the most rewarding things about travelling and being in Vietnam. They really are the heart and soul of the place.