I've never met anyone who was unmoved by the beauty and scale of the temples of Angkor. I do meet plenty of travellers who complain about crowds though. I'm guessing these are people who haven't visited popular tourist sights in Rome, Paris or London in the past decade or two. The best thing about travelling at Angkor is that if you avoid a few massively overrated spots - Phnom Bakheng sunset and Angkor Wat sunrise - you can still time your run to have quiet time with each temple, minus the big crowds. I shot this pic at the 12th century Preah Khan temple a few weeks ago in the middle of the peak season. I arrived there at around 4.30pm and saw four other tourists - it was blissful. And it's experiences like this that keep me returning to Angkor. Simple tips - visit the temples between 6 and 9AM and 3 and 6pm for best light and best access. Make sure you include temples like Preah Khan that are less visited by big tour groups - and spend a few days at it too. You'll be captivated.
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