Our quick independent guide to the highlights of Saigon. The city is still one of Asia's least recognised, culinary capitals. And the sheer energy of the place will sweep you up.
The past
While the Vietnamese prefer looking forward, there’s no denying the turmoil of Saigon’s past. It's five decades since the end of the American War, aka. The Vietnam War. And before that, the French were busy exploiting the country - interrupted by the Japanese in WWII. Exploring Saigon's remarkable history can be a great way to fully appreciate the miracle of Vietnam's post-war recovery and economic boom.
War History sites - War Remnants Museum and Reunification Palace
The War Remnants Museum, (formerly the American War Crimes Museum) is a confronting place to begin your journey through Vietnam’s decades at the front line of the Cold War. Be warned, several exhibits are deeply disturbing.
Close by, the former Presidential Palace, now the Reunification Palace, is less confronting but still a must for budding historians. It's also an architectural wonder. It was here that Ho Chi Minh’s struggle for a united Vietnam ended on 30 April 1975.
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Photo: Mark BowyerWar Remnants Museum, Saigon
There are plenty of other war era historic sites around town but most of them are unmarked and unrecognised. It's worth taking a stroll along central Dong Khoi St - Rue Catinat during French times and Tu Do during the American war. The shophouses are disappearing but the grandest structures - the Opera House, the Continental Hotel, the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Post Office have all survived Saigon's demolition binge.
Those that want to go deeper into the historical story might enjoy a walking tour with our sister travel company, Old Compass Travel.
Check out our list of things to see and do in Saigon here.
Chinatown
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Photo: Mark BowyerCholon - Saigon's Chinatown
This place makes the madness of downtown Saigon look subdued.
Known as Cholon, Saigon's Chinatown is home to the city’s most interesting pagodas and some of its best surviving colonial era architecture. They temples and pagodas provide relief from the hyperactivity outside. This is where Saigon’s huge Chinese community lives and it’s a great place to spend at least a half day.
Food glorious food
There’s nowhere better in the world to savour Vietnamese cuisine than Saigon. So make a plan and make sure you take the opportunity to sample not only the delicious local offerings but the great regional and international fare that’s plentifully available here.
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Photo: Mark BowyerFresh salads are part of the magic of Saigonese cuisine.
Saigon’s proximity to the lush Mekong Delta has blessed it with some of the best fresh produce in Asia.
Saigon also offers outstanding street food where you’ll rub shoulders with everyone from Vietnam’s young, rich and hip to dour Party cadres. It’s a very egalitarian experience.
And when you need the familiar flavours of home, or you want to experiment with Korean, Japanese, Chinese or European cuisine done Saigon style, there are plenty of options as well.
Saigon is a pretty serious coffee destination too. Check out our guide to the city's best coffee and cafes.
A big slice of Saigon's international dining has decamped to District 2 - the expat precinct around 20 minutes drive from downtown.
Check out out list of Saigon eating recommendations here.
Meet the people
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Photo: Mark BowyerA friendly smile, Saigon
Saigon’s youthful and friendly hyperactivity is one of its most captivating qualities. Make sure you take the chance to chat with the locals while you’re here. Whether it’s your tour guide, your cyclo driver, a waiter in a restaurant or a seller in a shop, you’ll be amazed at how keen the Saigonese are to interact and have a laugh. English may not be their first language but that rarely gets in the way. And a remarkable number of Saigonese are perfectly fluent in English too.
Cool cafes
You’ll need to take a break from the hectic pace of the city. Our favourite Saigon escapes are part of a growing trend of retro cafes that are popping up around town in the city's funky but crumbling old apartment buildings. For more cafe suggestions, click here.
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Photo: Mark BowyerLe Cong Kieu St - Saigon's "Antique Street"
Shopping
Few escape Saigon without parting with some cash in its boutiques, homeware shops or Ben Thanh Market. Le Cong Kieu St, aka. The major streets of downtown - Le Loi, Dong Khoi and Nguyen Hue are jammed with local and international shopping. Ben Thanh market is the city's central market.
Get out of town
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Photo: Mark BowyerCu Chi tunnels outside Saigon
Saigon is a great base for day trips to the Viet Cong tunnel complex at Cu Chi and the bizarre Cao Dai temple at Tay Ninh. Mekong Delta day trips are also popular for those without time to do a longer journey. Both can be visited by boat - a nice experience if the Saigon storms don't intervene.
And the not so good....
Traffic madness
Saigon’s traffic culture can be a real drag - especially if you’re trying to walk around. Simply crossing the road can be a struggle but cars driving directly at you and motorcycles mounting footpaths and demanding you get out of the way, will wear you down. We assume quite a few travellers get run down too.
Scammers
While bag and camera snatching have long been simmering issues in Saigon, threatening scammers are a more recent and troubling development. They come in the form of intimidating cyclo and xe om drivers, scammers that seek your help for a sick child, or a simple invitation back to meet the family. Whatever, be on your guard but don’t let paranoia spoil your stay.
Farewell to the old Saigon
Saigon’s construction boom is claiming old buildings of character and charm at an alarming rate. Many of the buildings that once earned the city the moniker “Paris of the East” have disappeared and we’re told more demolitions are planned.
That smoking thing
Even smokers complain about the smoke in Saigon’s bars and restaurants! The are are a handful of restaurants and bars limiting smoking - but it's still way too conspicuous. In some bars, the smoke is stifling. Most local men and many women smoke and most venues lack proper ventilation.
Twitter: @rustycompass
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